Fancy a quad but don’t have the budget to buy new? Then go for a used example instead — but be wary about what you buy, warns Peter Hill

They are definitely fast, can be huge fun and are reasonably functional. But new quads can also be beyond the budgets of people who want one for occasional use to perform light duties. For them, buying second-hand is a sensible alternative to consider.

"As long as it has not been thrashed or down-right abused, a second-hand quad makes sense," suggests Alan Dixon of Petersfield-based quad specialist Rafferty Newman. The situation is different for what might be called the serious user. "Pig farmers, gamekeepers and others who use their quads as genuine working machines, who need total reli-ability and to whom a decent parts back-up serv-ice and warranty are especially important, are better off buying new and changing the quad regularly, say every two to three years," he says.

Careful assessment

Since most people hang on to their machines longer than this, there is a relative shortage of low-hours quads in a tidy condition for less intensive operators to purchase. That makes it all the more important to take care when buy-ing second-hand, and to thoroughly assess what’s on offer.

"In making an initial saving of, perhaps, £2,000-2,500 by purchasing a used quad, people have to remember that they will face higher maintenance and repair bills in future," Alan emphasises. "The trick is to find a machine in good order with a decent service record in the hope of minimising those future costs."

As a Honda sales and service agent, Rafferty Newman takes in a fair number of trade-ins of dif-ferent makes, but will also buy-in used Hondas in recognition of the demand for good used exam-ples. As long as these machines can be brought up to a usable standard without too much expense, they will be refurbished in the workshop and put up for sale with a 30-day warranty.

Currently, the company has a selection of used Honda and Yamaha quads ready to go at prices between £1,800 and £3,000, as well as some awaiting workshop attention, which will involve replacing damaged bodywork or renew-ing mechanical components such as drive-shaft seals and joints.

"We rarely see any major engine problems, particularly with the Honda models which seem to tolerate neglect remarkably well," says Alan. And some machines certainly are neglected; it is generally the case that people with a pen-chant for livestock are often the least sympa-thetic when it comes to things mechanical.

Service record

"Like any other machine, quads need to have oil changes and should be serviced regularly to give the best and longest service," notes Alan. "A machine that outwardly looks a bit tired may still be quite sound mechanically. But if there is no service record to show it has been looked after, I’d be very cautious."

Rock-bottom prices make farm sale quads a tempting buy, but such purchases can have a sting in the tail. "I’ve had machines brought in that are worth half what the new owner’s paid, and need as much or more spent on them to bring them up to half-decent condition," says Alan. "You really have to know what you’re doing to make a sensible purchase at a farm sale or auction."

As with any machine purchase, the key to buying a second-hand quad is to try it out. That is the only way to check for such warning signs as a smoky exhaust, a clattery cam chain or clonking drive-shaft joints. It is also the only way to check that all the gears are present (be sure to go right through the gearbox) and that the four-wheel drive system works.

"If the splines on the front drive-shaft wear sufficiently, the shaft spins but there is no drive to the front wheels," Alan notes. "And you may only find that out when you get bogged down in some mud!"

SECOND HAND QUAD CHECKLIST
Check for weeping oil seals on the rear axle, as well as the level and condition of the oil in the final drive casing. Also watch for welded hubs on solid axles - a sign of worn drive-shaft splines	Rubber boots and gaiters (rarely fitted on early quads) should be present and in good condition to protect drive-shaft joints and seals from mud and water
Bodywork: Check the condition of plastic panels (quite costly to replace but not crucial to the machine’s performance), mud flaps, instruments and housings, gear levers and switch gear. Front and rear load racks: If these are bent, broken or welded, it could suggest impact damage or overloading. Wheels and tyres: Rim impact damage suggests a hard life. Tyres should be soft (inflated to 2-3psi) but not flat or overinflated. Replace-ment tyres cost typically £40-90 each. Electrics: These are generally reliable, but look for potential shorting with bare-ended wires from removed or damaged accessories. Batter-ies are long lasting, and cost £25-60 depending on type. Rear axle: Check for oil leaks from seals. Inspect the oil in the final drive housing for level and condition (it becomes watery or muddy if the seals are shot, causing ac42elerate~t mar). Also check for welded-up hubs on solid axles, indicating worn splines. A replacement rear-axle assembly is typically £500. Front axle: Check for loose steering joints (these are not expensive to put right), as well as excessive wheel-bearing, track-rod and suspension link movement. Suspension: This is not usually a problem area but check for an over-soft rear end which suggests springs and dampers have been weak-ened by overloading. Engine: A smoky exhaust suggests worn valves, a sticking choke plunger or carburettor wear (the latter is not crucial but it impairs starting reliability, increases fuel consumption and gums-up plugs). A clattery response to engine revs points to a worn camshaft drive-chain (or worn tensioner), which should be replaced (typically £80-90) as recommended, to avoid further damage resulting from failure. Check the oil level (and condition) by dipping without screwing the dipstick back into position. Dark, glutinous oil suggests infrequent replacement, and a burnt smell suggests an overfilled crankcase causing high pres-sures and temperatures. Transmission: Gearboxes and centrifugal clutches are a rare source of problems but check that all gears are present and that they engage readily. Chain drives (where fitted) can be problematic and require regular maintenance and adjustment. Check all drive-shaft universal joints for play and knocking’, especially at the front with full-lock on four-wheel drive models. Also make sure that rubber boots or gaiters protecting joints (on later models) are in place and in good condition. Drive CVT models under load if possible to check for belt slip. Chassis: Check wheel alignment (from side, and front to rear) to judge whether the chassis is all square. Ownership: Quads are vulnerable to theft, so check for engine and chassis numbers; beware if these are obliterated; check ownership with manufacturer’s ownership register.

This article first appeared in NFU COUNTRYSIDE February 2001