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Denise Lewis talks to Eddie Taylor about her introduction to Africa. It’s probably no surprise that I knew almost nothing about Namibia before I was invited on a ten-day safari holiday by the country’s Tourist Board. What little I did know had come from Frankie Fredericks, one of the world’s best sprinters. At the various athletics meetings around Europe in the months leading up to my trip he was always saying what a great place it was – but he was never going to be too impartial!. Being an athlete, my holidays have to be taken at the end of the season, so they’re usually around October time. And, to be totally honest, after ten months of training and competing, with sore limbs and aching muscles, I like to do as little as possible: a never- ending beach, a huge rum cocktail and I’m happy. So when I was presented with the idea of Namibia, and all the activities they had lined up for me, I must admit I thought I would be too prissy to cope. Being so fond of my creature comforts, I simply wanted to put my feet up and chill out. However, I can hardly overstate how fabulous Namibia turned out to be. It really is the most breathtaking place, and each of the ten days provided a truly exhilarating experience; the country is a soft and subtle introduction to the best that Africa has to offer. It surpassed all of my expectations as to what this continent is all about. Jonathan and I flew into Windhoek, the capital. It’s a clean, well-serviced town, if unremarkable, but with lovely housing and high-street shops it didn’t feel like Africa. Nor did our hotel at the palatial Windhoek Country Club, where the beautiful golf course, casino and fantastic restaurants added to the unreality of it all.
Seeing Stars The adventure began when we travelled to the coast and Walvis Bay, where we picked up a 4x4 and made the short trip to the nearby nature reserve. Initially, it felt as though we had just arrived at the end of the earth: the horizon was obscured by a sea mist which had descended over the whole area, while the sea roared away unseen as we approached the shore. You couldn’t help but feel completely isolated, surrounded by nothingness. But the barren scene was soon interrupted by two seals which swam close to where we were standing – I almost thought they sensed our solitude as they approached, their little black faces offering us some company! A few kilometres up the coast we were once again in blazing sunshine, it was here where the incredible diversity of birdlife became apparent, with thousands and thousands of pink and white flamingos. It was difficult to appreciate the different sensations in just one corner of Namibia, especially on our first real visit. The Sossusvlei Wilderness Camp was our next destination, and again it was like anything I had encountered in my life. This sea of sand dunes stretched out in front of us, all different shades of red and orange. Climbing the biggest of the dunes was a challenge I had to meet, with or without the tired limbs! It took two hours to climb – a little more for Jonathan, not that he’ll thank me for saying it – and it was incredibly hard work. I thought I was fit but it really sapped my muscles, especially my quads as my legs sank down into the sand. A great aerobic workout, if nothing else! Coming down was far easier, and I think it took us about seven minutes! A lot of athlete train by running across sand, but it something I always try and avoid. Luckily Birmingham doesn’t have sand dunes, although my Dutch coach has found a few over in Holland! I don’t really know what possessed me to do it on holiday, but it was a great experience… We camped under the stars at Sossusvlei – despite all my travelling over the years, I had never seen a Southern Hemisphere night sky before. I was amazed at the sheer number of stars, more seemed to appear the longer you looked. – and of course, I made dozens of wishes. Another nice aspect of the trip was the relatively small numbers in the group. There were never more than 20 people, so you really got to know them. And, I have to say, it was also quite nice that no-one recognised me: it meant that I could wander down to breakfast with my hair in any shape and no make-up, and no-one batted an eyelid! Towards the end of the trip I was eventually spotted by one British holidaymaker, but he seemed more interested in why I was in Nambia, as opposed to the athletics.
Wild and Wonderful The Etosha National Park was home to Namibia’s big game and for many the main reason for coming to Africa. We were fortunate enough to be able to leave our vehicles and track rhino and elephants on foot. There was just us, a guide and the animals on the middle of the wilderness. Excited though we were, I think we were both pretty scared at our vulnerability, and I instantly appreciated that this is their domain. We always think that man rules the world, but out here you feel so insignificant. It was very humbling. Of course, we were given a strict set of rules to follow; like where to stand -– i.e., downwind – and not to make any sudden movements or loud noises. We saw an abundance of animals. The Kudu, an antelope with a lovely honey-brown coat was a real favourite. They have enormous ears and a lovely expressive face with jet-black eyes. I also loved the elephants, they were very aware, sensitive and playful and you knew they were undisputed kings. At the watering hole you could immediately see the hierarchy: elephants first, then the zebra and the giraffes, with the rest waiting patiently behind. Watching the interplay, the body language and the social skills were fascinating. The animals knew we were there. But is was more curiosity than fear they were experiencing, and we knew if we abided by the rules we could watch each other undisturbed. We were struck with a sense of being at the very root of the planet, that these bare essentials of existence were how we once lived – and maybe how we’re supposed to. It was a real moment of freedom and peace. Like most Brits, I have a strong love of animals but I have never really had the opportunity to pursue this interest. When my athletics career is finished, I would love to take more time to see animals in their natural habitat – which seems so far removed from the human world. The Skeleton Coast provided another, completely different adventure into the animal kingdom – an enormous seal colony. And you didn’t even have to see one to know where you were; winding down the window several hundred yards away was enough! The smell was incredible. There were thousands of them, covering every inch of rock or swimming in the sea. The sea was literally black with them. You could see the bulls fighting, the pups playing and clambering over each other: the whole coast was a hive of activity – it was wonderful. Getting Around Firstly, I would advise anyone who wants a fly-drive holiday to Namibia that a 4x4 is absolutely essential – it is not worth taking short cuts. With all the sand and dust roads, had we not gone for a specialist vehicle we would have spent most of the holiday digging ourselves out of holes! We did have a few hairy moments though, one in particular when we got stuck in the middle of a stunning valley when a storm hit, lightning striking the ground literally metres from our car. It was one of those moments when you say to yourself "Right, what is it we’re supposed to do now?" and your mind goes blank. There are certain places, like Sossusvlei, where you can fly around in a turboprop plane – a brilliant way to see the surrounding areas. But I found driving gave us a better sense of actually being there, picking our way through the dirt tracks and across the harsh terrain – and besides, I wasn’t overly keen on the small plane. I know – what a wimp!
This article was first published in David Lloyd Lifestyle © Author Eddie Taylor. see our EXPEDITION SECTION for more details of travalling to Africa and other destinations |
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