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Land Rover 200 & 300 TDi 6,000 mile Service
Checking and Topping-Up Transfer GearboxRepeat this entire procedure for the transfer gearbox, however note that the filler plug requires a 1/2 Square Drive Extension Bar and Ratchet to undo it. The transfer gearbox is topped up with EP80W90 Oil. The filler plug is in a very awkward location and it will be impossible to get any oil into the box without a flexible tube. We recommend you purchase an OilSafe Pump Kit or a Fluid Transfer Pump to make life easy. The transfer gearbox filler plug should be retightened to a torque of 25NM. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN since the plug thread is a taper variety and will damage the gear case if too much torque is applied). The transfer box filler plug can be seen above right of the ratio label. Again its in an awkward location, but a 1 litre Fluid Transfer Pump makes for easy topping-up from an economic 5 litre container of EP80W90 Checking and Topping-Up Front and Rear Axle DifferentialsLocate the front axle filler plug and loosen it using a 1/2 Square Drive Extension Bar and Ratchet and relocate the drip tray and oil drainpan beneath it. Remove the filler plug by hand and watch for a dribble of oil. If no oil dribbles out top-up the front axle with fresh EP80W90 Oil until a dribble appears. The filler plug is in a very awkward location and it will be impossible to get any oil into the box without a flexible tube. We recommend you purchase an OilSafe Pump Kit or a Fluid Transfer Pump to make life easy, especially when the axle oils have to be changed in later services. Occasionally you will come across an axle that has been overfilled and in this case let the excess oil drain out until a steady dribble is seen. Clean up the threads of the filler plug with a wire brush before refitting since these are often clogged with rust and debris. Wipe any debris off the filler plug and refit it, tightening to a torque of 25NM. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN since the plug thread is a taper variety and will damage the gear case if too much torque is applied).
Checking and Topping-Up Front Axle Swivel HousingsWe also need to check and top up the Front Axle Swivels, but this job is far easier with the Front Road Wheels removed. Hence the swivel checking and topping up procedure is listed later in this feature, following the removal of the road wheels Checking Front and Rear Axle BreathersLocate the front axle breather pipe and check that it is secure and undamaged. If you can locate the free end in the engine bay then clean the end and try to blow into it. You should be able to blow a small amount of air into the axle. Dont use an airline for this and dont suck since the oil vapours are unpleasant! Investigate any blockages and replace any damaged pipes. Checking and Greasing Front and Rear PropshaftsLocate the front propshaft and try to move the propshaft from side to side, up and down and by rotating in order to detect any wear in the Universal Joint (UJ) at each end. If you can detect play in either joint it should be replaced as soon as practicable. Carefully examine the rubber seals on both the UJs and the propshaft sliding joint. If any UJ seals are damaged, the entire UJ must be replaced since water and dirt are almost certainly now at work inside promoting corrosion, wear and premature failure. If the sliding joint seal (a flexible gaiter) is damaged, the joint should be stripped down and inspected by a competent mechanic as soon as practicable. If the joint is found to be serviceable a new seal (gaiter) can be fitted and the propshaft refitted to the vehicle.
Repeat this entire procedure for the rear propshaft.
Checking Brake and Clutch PipesMake sure you are wearing goggles (in case muck drops in your eyes while your are underneath looking up) and gloves, and carefully inspect all the brake and clutch pipes, especially the flexible hoses, for damage, corrosion or leaks. If the pipes are rusty give them a rub with synthetic wire wool and check for any pitting; pay special attention to any dark, wet areas. Anything other than light surface rust should be treated as potentially dangerous and the pipe should be renewed. Apply Waxoyl or similar, not paint or underseal (these may hide rather than prevent future corrosion and fall foul of an MOT examiner) to any area exposed by the synthetic wool. Similarly, any cracks, scuffs or crazing of the flexible hoses will necessitate replacement. While you are examining the flexible hoses get someone to push hard on the brake pedal and check that the hoses remain tubular and do not bulge.
Checking Suspension Bushes and FixingsNow locate all four axle bump stops and check that they are present, undamaged and their steel bases are not heavily corroded.
Repeat the pry bar test for the panhard rod and anti-roll bar bushes (if fitted) as well as the rear A-frame ball joint and arms. On some 110 Defenders, a self-levelling unit is fitted above the A-frame ball joint. Its a fat, tubular looking device and should be examined for signs of heavy oil leaks (dont worry about a slight weep of oil) or split and damaged rubber seals (top and bottom). There is also a ball joint at the top and bottom of the unit (nothing to do with the A-frame ball joint) so again check these for excessive wear.
Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts that hold the suspension components in place - pay particular attention to the nuts and bolts that fix the panhard rod mounting bracket to the chassis.
Checking Exhaust and MountingsLocate the exhaust system as it weaves up and over the rear axle. Make sure the exhaust is cool and then examine all the exhaust hangers for secure fixing, especially the rubber mountings that are prone to working free or degrading. Mark sure that all the fixings are actually present, its not unknown for one or two to be missing on older vehicles. Look at the exhaust itself for signs of leaks (black deposits) or damage and corrosion. Pay special attention to joints and welded flanges since these are prone to corrode or fatigue failure, even on stainless steel systems. Grab the exhaust with both hands and give it a good shake. This will confirm that the mountings are secure. Occasionally the baffles inside the silencer boxes work loose and rattle incessantly even though the outside of the silencer appears in perfect condition. Shaking the exhaust will help detect this otherwise hard to trace rattle.
Checking Steering Linkages and AlignmentNow make a thorough check of all the steering components. If you have power steering then check for heavy leaks from the underside of the steering box, dont worry about a drip or two since this is typical on such systems. Whether power steering or not, grab hold of the steering box drop arm and try to move it about to detect side to side or up and down play. Excessive play must be investigated by a competent mechanic as soon as possible.
Check the track rods to ensure that they are straight and undamaged, especially if you have ventured offroad. If you find a damaged track rod it must be replaced NOT repaired. Grab hold of the track rod at its end and try to move it from side to side to detect play in the ball joint. Examine every ball joint very carefully to check that the sealing rubber is undamaged and not degraded. If you find a damaged seal then the ball joint must be replaced even if the joint feels OK since water and dirt are almost certainly now at work inside promoting corrosion, wear and premature failure. Similarly any play detected in a joint means it must be replaced.
Check that the ball joints are aligned as per the diagram by pushing each in the direction shown. They should all move to the maximum limit permitted by each ball joint. If they dont, slacken the clamp bolts on the track rods and knock them over gently with a Soft Faced Hammer before retightening the clamp bolts to a torque of 14NM.
Checking Fuel Tank and PipesCheck the fuel tank for secure fixing and damage or corrosion. Look out for any dark, damp spots smelling strongly of diesel. Check all the fuel pipes and electrical wiring visible for secure fixing, kinking or dents. Examine the condition of the fuel filler pipe connection, its filler cap and any cover flap. The filler cap should form a good, secure seal with the filler pipe. Checking Engine and Gearbox MountingsCheck the engine and gearbox mountings, especially the rubber bushes for deterioration, and the fixings for tightness. Be careful if you are levering against the gearbox to detect movement - its a cast component and these can be cracked by the overzealous application of force. Similarly take care if levering against the engine components. Note, beware using pattern parts when replacing engine or gearbox mountings. These non-genuine pattern mountings can be too hard and will transfer noise, harshness and vibration into the vehicle.
Checking Chassis and OutriggersNow check the Chassis, all its Outriggers and the Bulkhead for damage or corrosion. Dont be bashful when investigating rust, get an old screwdriver or a small toffee hammer and give the rust several hard pokes. If the area is already rusty it hardly matters if you make a scratch or two or flake off some loose paint. Work outwards until you have come to sound, painted metal. Usually oil leaks from the engine and gearbox mean that the chassis around these is as good as when it left the factory. However, key areas to examine are as follows:
Check too that all four mudflaps are present and not split or torn Checking Coolant Hoses, Wiring Harness and Feed PipesNow return to the engine bay and take a good look around at all the coolant hoses and wires and connectors. Are any split or perhaps chaffing or broken? Make a note of those that are and have them replaced or repaired as soon as possible. Check that all are secured too, especially electrical wiring. Tidy them up with cable ties (black ones look neatest) if any are loose, but be careful not to pinch them too tight and DONT cleat them to a moving linkage or anything that will get excessively hot.
When checking the coolant hoses, look for tell-tale green or blue crystals that are deposited as antifreeze leaks out of the system. Look carefully at the radiator matrix, inlet and outlet
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