Land Rover 200 & 300 TDi 6,000 mile Service

Checking and Topping-Up Transfer Gearbox

Repeat this entire procedure for the transfer gearbox, however note that the filler plug requires a 1/2” Square Drive Extension Bar and Ratchet to undo it. The transfer gearbox is topped up with EP80W90 Oil. The filler plug is in a very awkward location and it will be impossible to get any oil into the box without a flexible tube. We recommend you purchase an OilSafe Pump Kit or a Fluid Transfer Pump to make life easy. The transfer gearbox filler plug should be retightened to a torque of 25NM. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN since the plug thread is a taper variety and will damage the gear case if too much torque is applied).

Checking and Topping-Up Front and Rear Axle Differentials

Locate the front axle filler plug and loosen it using a 1/2” Square Drive Extension Bar and Ratchet and relocate the drip tray and oil drainpan beneath it. Remove the filler plug by hand and watch for a dribble of oil. If no oil dribbles out top-up the front axle with fresh EP80W90 Oil until a dribble appears. The filler plug is in a very awkward location and it will be impossible to get any oil into the box without a flexible tube. We recommend you purchase an OilSafe Pump Kit or a Fluid Transfer Pump to make life easy, especially when the axle oils have to be changed in later services. Occasionally you will come across an axle that has been overfilled and in this case let the excess oil drain out until a steady dribble is seen. Clean up the threads of the filler plug with a wire brush before refitting since these are often clogged with rust and debris. Wipe any debris off the filler plug and refit it, tightening to a torque of 25NM. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN since the plug thread is a taper variety and will damage the gear case if too much torque is applied).

Repeat this whole topping-up procedure for the rear axle.

		Our 1 litre Fluid Transfer Pump makes for easy work of topping-up the front and rear axles. Don’t forget to clean up the threads of the filler plug before refitting

Checking and Topping-Up Front Axle Swivel Housings

We also need to check and top up the Front Axle Swivels, but this job is far easier with the Front Road Wheels removed. Hence the swivel checking and topping up procedure is listed later in this feature, following the removal of the road wheels

Checking Front and Rear Axle Breathers

Locate the front axle breather pipe and check that it is secure and undamaged. If you can locate the ‘free’ end in the engine bay then clean the end and try to blow into it. You should be able to blow a small amount of air into the axle. Don’t use an airline for this and don’t suck since the oil vapours are unpleasant! Investigate any blockages and replace any damaged pipes.

Repeat this whole procedure for the rear axle breather pipe.

Checking and Greasing Front and Rear Propshafts

Locate the front propshaft and try to move the propshaft from side to side, up and down and by rotating in order to detect any wear in the Universal Joint (UJ) at each end. If you can detect play in either joint it should be replaced as soon as practicable. Carefully examine the rubber seals on both the UJ’s and the propshaft sliding joint. If any UJ seals are damaged, the entire UJ must be replaced since water and dirt are almost certainly now at work inside promoting corrosion, wear and premature failure. If the sliding joint seal (a flexible gaiter) is damaged, the joint should be stripped down and inspected by a competent mechanic as soon as practicable. If the joint is found to be serviceable a new seal (gaiter) can be fitted and the propshaft refitted to the vehicle.

Locate the three propshaft grease nipples. There should be one in each of the cross shaped UJ’s at either end (sometimes these are not fitted – see below) and one in the main tubular body of the shaft over the sliding joint area.

Double check that all the nipples are clean by wiping with a soft cloth and check that they are undamaged. The top of the shiny steel ball that seals the end of the nipple should just be visible; push this steel ball inwards with a Pointed Tool to ensure it is free to move. Fit a high quality Grease Gun to each nipple in turn and inject with a Long Life Lithium Complex EP Grease. Note you must ensure that the hydraulic connector is held in a direct line with the grease nipple as you start pumping. When fully greased, double check that the four rubber sealing cups have not become dislodged since this would allow water and dirt to enter and rapidly destroy the UJ.

Be VERY careful when greasing the sliding joint, you don’t want to overfill it, so a couple of moderate squirts will suffice. The joint slides in and out as the axle bumps up and down relative to the transfer gearbox. If you overfill the sliding joint with grease it cannot be compressed as the joint slides and so either the seal blows out or the propshaft tube splits!

DIFFLOCK TIP: Ideally, dirty black old grease followed by fresh clean grease should emerge from each ‘corner’ of the UJ’s. If one corner seems blocked try pulling the propshaft towards that corner as you apply grease. Some UJ’s are sealed for life and do not have a grease nipple. All you can do with these is replace them when they wear out. If you have removed the propshaft to examine the sliding joint then compress the reassembled propshaft fully before regreasing. This ensures that the joint cannot be overfilled so you can be more generous when regreasing. Fit Grease Nipple Protection Caps to all grease nipples to protect them from dirt and debris (especially if you offroad or wade with the vehicle)

Fresh grease (ours is red for easy identification) should emerge from cups of the Universal Joint, and Protection Caps fitted to keep the nipples corrosion-free and unblocked.

Using our Propshaft Tool DF180 double check the tightness of the nuts and bolts that secure each end of the front and rear propshaft to the axles and gearbox (torque = 50NM). While you are doing this, check the security of the mudshield on the axle and gearbox output flanges. This mudshield occasionally comes loose, rattles incessantly and is very difficult to trace as the source of the noise.

Check the tightness of the propshaft securing bolts and the security of the mudshield (arrowed).

Checking Brake and Clutch Pipes

Make sure you are wearing goggles (in case muck drops in your eyes while your are underneath looking up) and gloves, and carefully inspect all the brake and clutch pipes, especially the flexible hoses, for damage, corrosion or leaks. If the pipes are rusty give them a rub with synthetic wire wool and check for any pitting; pay special attention to any dark, ‘wet’ areas. Anything other than light surface rust should be treated as potentially dangerous and the pipe should be renewed. Apply Waxoyl or similar, not paint or underseal (these may hide rather than prevent future corrosion and fall foul of an MOT examiner) to any area exposed by the synthetic wool. Similarly, any cracks, scuffs or crazing of the flexible hoses will necessitate replacement. While you are examining the flexible hoses get someone to push hard on the brake pedal and check that the hoses remain tubular and do not bulge.

If not already present fit Nipple Protection Caps to all the bleed nipples on the brake and clutch systems.

Check the brake and clutch lines along their entire length for leaks or corrosion - note the Nipple Protection Caps keeping the bleed nipples free of blockages or internal corrosion

Checking Suspension Bushes and Fixings

Now locate all four axle bump stops and check that they are present, undamaged and their steel bases are not heavily corroded.

Take a large steel pry bar and lever each suspension bush (two in each front axle radius arm and one in each rear axle trailing link) in turn to detect excessive play. Don’t be bashful, get in there and apply a good amount of force by hand since the weight of the vehicle will otherwise ‘hide’ any movement. Look too for signs of splitting, perishing or cracking in the rubbers which sandwich the chassis mounting points.

		Don’t be timid, get a good strong pry bar and give those mountings a good lever. These orange ones are in fact Polybushes and so look quite different from genuine parts metallastic bushes

Repeat the pry bar test for the panhard rod and anti-roll bar bushes (if fitted) as well as the rear ‘A’-frame ball joint and arms. On some 110 Defenders, a self-levelling unit is fitted above the ‘A’-frame ball joint. It’s a fat, tubular looking device and should be examined for signs of heavy oil leaks (don’t worry about a slight weep of oil) or split and damaged rubber seals (top and bottom). There is also a ball joint at the top and bottom of the unit (nothing to do with the ‘A’-frame ball joint) so again check these for excessive wear.

DIFFLOCK TIP: The rear ‘A’-frame ball joint can, and does, wear out and is one of the major causes of ‘clunks’ when taking up drive. Pay special attention to looking for wear in the joint if you have a ‘clunky’ drivetrain

Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts that hold the suspension components in place - pay particular attention to the nuts and bolts that fix the panhard rod mounting bracket to the chassis.

Don’t forget the panhard rod bushes - any weakness in these may seriously affect the steering and handling

Checking Exhaust and Mountings

Locate the exhaust system as it weaves up and over the rear axle. Make sure the exhaust is cool and then examine all the exhaust hangers for secure fixing, especially the rubber mountings that are prone to working free or degrading. Mark sure that all the fixings are actually present, it’s not unknown for one or two to be missing on older vehicles. Look at the exhaust itself for signs of leaks (black deposits) or damage and corrosion. Pay special attention to joints and welded flanges since these are prone to corrode or fatigue failure, even on stainless steel systems. Grab the exhaust with both hands and give it a good shake. This will confirm that the mountings are secure. Occasionally the baffles inside the silencer boxes work loose and rattle incessantly even though the outside of the silencer appears in perfect condition. Shaking the exhaust will help detect this otherwise hard to trace rattle.

DIFFLOCK TIP: Although the exhaust can be checked over during the service, a useful additional check later is to place a thickly folded rag over the end while the engine is running at idle speed. Wear thick gloves and don’t put your gloved hand directly on the exhaust. Push the rag against the exhaust so that the exhaust gases are being forced past the rag but don’t block the exhaust completely and don’t rev the engine. Listen for hissing or ‘chuffing’ all along the exhaust system since this is a sure sign it is leaking. You should be able to isolate any leaks by this characteristic hissing. Although a variety of repair products such as paste and bandages are available, we recommend these are used only as temporary repairs - damaged or corroded exhaust components are best replaced

Checking Steering Linkages and Alignment

Now make a thorough check of all the steering components. If you have power steering then check for heavy leaks from the underside of the steering box, don’t worry about a drip or two since this is typical on such systems. Whether power steering or not, grab hold of the steering box drop arm and try to move it about to detect side to side or up and down play. Excessive play must be investigated by a competent mechanic as soon as possible.

Examine the steering column as it passes through the engine bay. It has two UJ’s and a collapsible rubber disc. Examine these for signs of perishing or excessive play. Rusty streaks around the UJ’s are a big clue to excessive wear. Any faults must be rectified immediately. Apply light oil to the UJ’s using the flexible spout of a General Maintenance Oil Can.

Examine the steering column in the engine bay for worn Universal Joints or a split or perished rubber disc since these are life threatening faults!

Check the track rods to ensure that they are straight and undamaged, especially if you have ventured offroad. If you find a damaged track rod it must be replaced NOT repaired. Grab hold of the track rod at its end and try to move it from side to side to detect play in the ball joint. Examine every ball joint very carefully to check that the sealing rubber is undamaged and not degraded. If you find a damaged seal then the ball joint must be replaced even if the joint feels OK since water and dirt are almost certainly now at work inside promoting corrosion, wear and premature failure. Similarly any ‘play’ detected in a joint means it must be replaced.

Note that some track rod ends are fitted with grease nipples whereas other are sealed for life. Where fitted, double check that all the nipples are clean by wiping with a soft cloth and check that they are undamaged. The top of the shiny steel ball that seals the end of the nipple should just be visible; push this steel ball inwards with a Pointed Tool to ensure it is free to move. Fit a High Quality Grease Gun to each nipple in turn and inject with a Long Life Lithium Complex EP Grease. Note you must ensure the hydraulic connector is held in a direct line with the grease nipple as you start pumping. When fully greased, double check that the rubber seal has not become dislodged since this would allow water and dirt to enter and rapidly destroy the ball joint within.

DIFFLOCK TIP: Ideally, dirty black old grease followed by fresh clean grease should emerge from under the sealing rubber. Fit Protection Caps to all grease nipples to protect them from dirt and debris (especially if you offroad or wade with the vehicle)

Examine carefully each and every track rod end for any signs of wear or damaged sealing rubbers. These ones are sealed for life so no further greasing is required

Check that the ball joints are aligned as per the diagram by pushing each in the direction shown. They should all move to the maximum limit permitted by each ball joint. If they don’t, slacken the clamp bolts on the track rods and knock them over gently with a Soft Faced Hammer before retightening the clamp bolts to a torque of 14NM.

Check the steering damper for leaks or damage paying special attention to its mounting rubbers at either end. If the rubbers are perished or worn they can be replaced provided the damper is otherwise OK. To fully test the damper you must remove it from the vehicle and extend and close it several times over its total possible travel. The resistance to movement should be stiff and even at all times.

On TDI vehicles, next to the steering damper, is a thick, heavy, saucer-sized disc attached to the front axle differential. Check that this disc is securely fixed since its purpose is to eliminate excessive vibrations.

Check the Vibration Damper is securely fastened

WARNING: Do not attempt to carry out adjustments or repairs to your vehicle steering if you have had no formal mechanical training. Furthermore, work on the steering components often necessitates precise alignment checks and adjustments and these cannot be performed without specialist garage equipment. Have a professional garage or wheel and tyre centre check the steering alignment following any steering work you carry out yourself

Checking Fuel Tank and Pipes

Check the fuel tank for secure fixing and damage or corrosion. Look out for any dark, ‘damp’ spots smelling strongly of diesel. Check all the fuel pipes and electrical wiring visible for secure fixing, kinking or dents. Examine the condition of the fuel filler pipe connection, its filler cap and any cover flap. The filler cap should form a good, secure seal with the filler pipe.

Checking Engine and Gearbox Mountings

Check the engine and gearbox mountings, especially the rubber bushes for deterioration, and the fixings for tightness. Be careful if you are levering against the gearbox to detect movement - it’s a cast component and these can be cracked by the overzealous application of force. Similarly take care if levering against the engine components. Note, beware using ‘pattern parts’ when replacing engine or gearbox mountings. These non-genuine pattern mountings can be too hard and will transfer noise, harshness and vibration into the vehicle.

DIFFLOCK TIP: Some engine mountings conceal the rubber elements in a tubular metal enclosure so either use a steel pry bar to detect excessive movement or wait until the service is complete and then have someone ‘pulse’ the accelerator while the engine is running and the vehicle is stationary and still chocked. The engine will naturally ‘kick’ over in the direction of its rotation and if the bushes are poor this ‘kick’ will be sudden and accompanied by a clunk

Checking Chassis and Outriggers

Now check the Chassis, all its Outriggers and the Bulkhead for damage or corrosion. Don’t be bashful when investigating rust, get an old screwdriver or a small ‘toffee’ hammer and give the rust several hard pokes. If the area is already rusty it hardly matters if you make a scratch or two or flake off some loose paint. Work outwards until you have come to sound, painted metal. Usually oil leaks from the engine and gearbox mean that the chassis around these is as good as when it left the factory. However, key areas to examine are as follows:

• Front dumb irons where the bumper connects to the chassis - be especially vigilant if you have a front mounted winch since much of its force is transmitted through these to the rest of the vehicle
• Front spring and shock absorber turrets especially on the opposite side to the steering box
• Front wheel arches, especially behind the wheels where all that spray, grit and winter salt is thrown up at speed by the wheels
• Front and rear suspension mounting points, especially where the outrigger is ‘clamped’ between two rubber bushes - water can be trapped in here, promoting corrosion
  
• Fuel tank fixing points
• Rear cross-member or rear bumper mounting points
• Rear tow hitch fixings - especially check all nuts and bolts for tightness
• Bulkhead footwells both inside and outside - lift any mats or carpets and look for damp or musty smells indicating a water leak
• Bulkhead around and under windscreen mounting rubber
• Bulkhead around ventilation flaps on Defender models
• Bulkhead door pillar especially on Defender models

Check too that all four mudflaps are present and not split or torn

Checking Coolant Hoses, Wiring Harness and Feed Pipes

Now return to the engine bay and take a good look around at all the coolant hoses and wires and connectors. Are any split or perhaps chaffing or broken? Make a note of those that are and have them replaced or repaired as soon as possible. Check that all are secured too, especially electrical wiring. Tidy them up with cable ties (black ones look neatest) if any are loose, but be careful not to pinch them too tight and DON’T cleat them to a moving linkage or anything that will get excessively hot.

Repeat these checks for the following:

• Oil feed pipes to turbocharger and oil cooler
• Feed pipes for the power steering system
• Air-conditioning pipes
• Fuel lines
• Air intake hoses to intercooler and engine

When checking the coolant hoses, look for tell-tale green or blue crystals that are deposited as antifreeze leaks out of the system. Look carefully at the radiator matrix, inlet and outlet

< < PREVIOUS PAGE

BACK TO THE START

NEXT PAGE >>

DISCLAIMER: Repairing and servicing vehicles should never be attempted unless you have appropriate professional training and are suitably qualified. If you are in any doubt about the work you intend to undertake you should consult an appropriate professional vehicle mechanic. Additionally you should always read and follow any relevant manufacturer’s manuals and safety instructions in full BEFORE attempting any work on a vehicle. To the extent permitted by English law, Difflock Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising as a consequence of any of the advice provided.