Land Rover 200 & 300 TDi 6,000 mile Service

Waterproofing and Corrosion Proofing the Engine Bay

Did you follow our advice and thoroughly pressure wash clean the engine and engine bay before starting your service? If so, then you should now take a tin of AC90and give everything, including the engine but not the exhaust, a generous spray over. Pay special attention to the electrical connections and the external moving parts of the injection pump. This will protect against damp or condensation thus preventing future corrosion and will also lubricate moving parts.

Removing the Road Wheels

Now you can take a break from leaning over the engine and turn your attention to the wheels and tyres.

Wheel nuts are notoriously difficult to undo, usually due to a lack of attention, until an emergency such as a flat tyre forces the issue and leaves you stranded at the roadside with seized wheel nuts! You can solve this problem with a few simple steps during servicing.

DIFFLOCK TIP: We recommend that you invest in an Ultra Heavy Duty Wheel Brace because this will give you far more leverage at the nut. Our Ultra Heavy Duty Wheel Brace comes complete with a special 27mm socket called an Impact Socket. Impact sockets are made from very high grade chrome vanadium steel and are hexagonal inside so exactly match the shape of the nut making it impossible for the socket or nut to round off instead of turning. If you have locking wheel nuts fitted, always carry the key to them in your car in case you get a puncture away from home. If you have lost your key you can use one of our Locking Wheel Nut Removal Tools. All LandRover wheel nuts undo anti-clockwise. Always position your brace so that you are initially pushing down on it. If necessary you can use your foot on the brace to apply extra force to undo a nut. Never pull upwards to undo a difficult nut because you risk a back injury or hernia

Take a moment to read our Guide to Jacking and Lifting your vehicle here. Raising your vehicle off the ground is one of the most hazardous operations you will perform during routine servicing so it pays to stop, think and do it right.

Make sure that all the wheel chocks are still in place on all the wheels except the one you are working on. Always first loosen the wheel nuts half a turn or so without undoing them further before you attempt to lift a wheel off the ground using a jack. This is because applying a large force to a ‘seized’ wheel nut may rock a raised vehicle off the jack or axle stand. Only loosen one set of wheel nuts at a time and only raise the wheel that you are working on. See picture for the correct order in which to loosen or tighten wheel nuts

Always undo or re-tighten wheel nuts in the sequence shown Start with the front offside wheel, and with the wheel nuts loosened, raise only this wheel until it is clear of the ground. Never position your jack under any of the suspension mountings since this will place excessive load on the bushes within. Jack up the vehicle using only the axle tube itself or the underside of the differential

DIFFLOCK TIP: Buy the biggest, toughest hydraulic trolley jack you can afford for working on your 4x4. We only recommend and sell the Omega Mechanix 3-Ton Fast-Lift Jack for 4x4’s. This is because it is extremely stable and very strong. Don’t risk your life or legs with a cheap and cheerful £19.99 jack from a discount store; 4x4s are heavy and with their high centre of gravity are easily toppled off inferior jacks

Place a heavy-duty, broad based, Column Type Axle Stand under the axle and lower the jack until the axle stand is taking all the weight. Check that the axle stand is high enough to leave the tyre clear of the ground.

Preventing Wheels and Wheel Nuts Seizing

Remove all except one of the uppermost wheel nuts. Remember that your wheel will be very heavy so use a spade or shovel under the wheel to take its weight as you then spin off the last nut. You can now remove the road wheel and roll it to one side. Take a smear of anti-seize paste such as Copperslip and apply it sparingly to the wheel face that mates with the axle. This will help prevent the two corroding and seizing together (a common problem with alloy wheels). Do the same to the wheel nut where the face of the nut meets the wheel. Wearing a dust mask, clean up the threads of the wheel studs using a wire brush and again apply a smear of Copperslip all over them. Hey Presto! with cleaned up threads and anti-seize paste applied, your wheel nuts and wheels will never again seize on your beloved 4x4!

Checking Tyre Pressures, Wear and Condition

Now with the wheel still off the vehicle, turn your attention to the tyre. Use a proper, calibrated Gauge to check the tyre pressure. Correct any low pressure with either a Foot Pump or better still a portable, Heavy-Duty Tyre Inflator. If you don’t have a pump to adjust an incorrect pressure there and then, you MUST go to a garage to do it as soon as possible after your service.

DIFFLOCK TIP: If the pressure is low then check and correct it daily. If it continues to fall you have a potentially serious fault and you must get it fixed as soon as possible. Always make sure all the tyre valves have screw-on caps fitted - they protect it from dirt, damage and corrosion

Rotate the tyre slowly and carefully examine the sides of the tyres for wear, cracks, cuts, foreign objects or bulges. Do the same for the tread area that contacts the road surface (known as the rolling circumference). Foreign objects such as stones that have wedged in the tread but NOT penetrated beyond the tread into the tyre should be removed with a small screwdriver or similar, but do remember to wear goggles when you do this because they can fly out with some force. Check the actual wheels themselves particularly for damage caused by road kerbs or offroad adventures. Don’t forget to check the inner tyre wall towards the centre of the vehicle.

DIFFLOCK TIP: Never run your bare hands over a tyre whether it is stationary or spinning. If it contains a shard of glass or other sharp object in the tread it will slice open your bare skin and flesh. Always put on thick Kevlar Gloves when handling tyres

You should also use a proper tread gauge to check that your tyres are not worn below the legal limit (you must have at least 1.6mm depth of tread across the central three quarters of the tyre’s rolling circumference). Given that your tyres’ performance is affected by wear, especially in the wet or snow, we err on the cautious side and replace ours when the tread is 2mm depth on any portion of the tyre’s rolling surface that meets the road.

Check the tread too for unusual wear patterns. Tread wear should be relatively even and symmetrical across the rolling circumference. If it isn’t, you could have a problem with your tyre pressures, the steering set up or even your suspension and chassis.

Apart from the occasional miscreant tyre pressure or minor object wedged in but not penetrating the tread portion of the tyre, all and any other faults are both serious and potentially life threatening. If you find any on a tyre you must not drive on it. Remove it from the vehicle immediately and take it to a tyre specialist as soon as possible.

DIFFLOCK TIP: Do you offroad at all? If so then you should carry out the above checks on your tyres as soon as you return to tarmac. Damage sustained when offroading may prove catastrophic when your tyres are stressed by higher road speeds as you return home

Checking and Topping-Up Front Axle Swivels

With each Front Road Wheel removed, you can now check and top up the Front Axle Swivel Housings.

Locate the front axle swivel housing filler plug and loosen it using a 1/2” Open Ended Spanner.

DIFFLOCK TIP: The Filler Plug is awkwardly located, with the Brake Shield in close proximity. Take a 100mm Long 1/2” Extension Bar and invert it over the square end of the filler plug. You can now use a 1/2” Open Ended Spanner on the end of the extension bar, well clear of the Brake Shield

A 100mm long 1/2” drive extension bar placed on the square head of the Filler Plug makes access and loosening the plug far easier

Locate the Swivel Housing Level Plug (it’s a small plug under the steering lock bolt) and relocate the drip tray and oil drainpan beneath it. Using a 6mm open ended spanner, remove the level plug and watch for a dribble of oil. If no oil dribbles out, top-up the front axle with fresh EP80W90 oil until a dribble appears

The filler plug is in a very awkward location and it will be impossible to get any oil into the box without a flexible tube. We recommend you purchase an OilSafe Pump Kit or a Fluid Transfer Pump to make life easy, especially when the axle oils have to be changed in later services. Occasionally you will come across a housing that has been overfilled and in this case let the excess oil drain out until a steady dribble is seen.

Clean up the threads of the filler and level plugs with a wire brush before refitting since these are often clogged with rust and debris.

Wipe any debris off the filler plug and refit it, tightening to a torque of 25NM. (DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN since the plug thread is a taper variety and will damage the gear case if too much torque is applied). The Smaller Level Plug should be tightened to a Torque of no more than 10NM.

Note if your swivel housing has been filled with “one-shot grease” you do not need to top up with EP80W90 Oil.

Refitting the Road Wheels

Refit the road wheel and nip up the wheel nuts hand tight. Fit the wheel nuts by hand only for the first few turns of the threads since this will avoid cross-threading them. Raise the axle on the jack, remove the axle stand and gently lower the wheel back onto the ground. Replace the chocks either side of the wheel and using a Torque Wrench DF343 and adapter, tighten up the nuts in the correct sequence using the 27mm impact socket from your wheelbrace (torque = 129NM).

Repeat all of the above for each wheel and tyre in turn, not forgetting the spare.

Refitting the Battery

Well, believe it or not, that’s all the major mechanical stuff completed. You can now carefully replace the battery cell caps (don’t forget to wear goggles!) and refit the car’s battery (assuming it’s fully charged and you have let it rest for a few minutes after charging is complete). Always secure the battery down by its restraining strap before connecting it up. Smear the battery terminals with petroleum jelly or Copperslip and always connect up the Positive (+) terminal and its red plastic cover first when refitting. Tighten up the terminal clamp bolt to a torque of 22–28NM. You may get a small spark as you next attach the negative (-) terminal but don’t worry, this is only because certain circuits such as the clock in your vehicle are always on.

With the battery connected, double check the gearbox is still in neutral and the wheels remain chocked and lowered fully to the ground. Reactivate any alarm/immobiliser and radio.

Restarting Engine and Checking For Leaks

You can now start the engine but don’t touch the accelerator or rev it because you must give time for the fresh engine oil to fill the new filter element and circulate all around. While the engine is idling, check all round the vehicle - especially the underside for leaks of fuel, oil or any other fluid. If you spot a leak switch off the engine immediately and investigate. Usually, leaks at this stage mean that you forgot to retighten something and so are easily cured. After a few seconds of running, check that the oil pressure warning light is no longer lit up on the instrument panel.

Checking Gauges and Electrical Equipment

Check that all dashboard warning lamps read normal, especially oil pressure but note that it may take a few seconds after starting for the oil pressure lamp to extinguish.

Just a few more basic checks to go now and you are all done! Check the following electrical items are operating correctly:

• Sidelights
• Headlights (Dipped/Main Beam/Flash)
• Indicators
• Hazard Lights
• Brake Lights
• Fog Lights
• Reversing Lights
• Number Plate Light
• Internal Lights
• Windscreen Wipers (Front and Rear)
• Windscreen Washers (Front and Rear)
• Headlamp Washers (if fitted)
• Electric Mirrors (if fitted)
• Central Locking (if fitted)

If you find something isn’t working, then investigate immediately since all of the above must be in working order if your car is to be safe and roadworthy. Failed lights are almost always due to a simple broken bulb and replacement is easy. Occasionally a broken bulb may also blow a fuse and so don’t forget to check your fuses if you have replaced a bulb and you find the light still doesn’t work.

If a fault persists then have it fixed by a competent auto electrician as soon as possible. Bodged electrical wiring and systems is one of the biggest disaster areas in second-hand vehicles so unless you really know what you are doing, leave it to a specialist.

If you have an electrically heated front or rear screen (often with associated electrically heated mirrors) it is difficult to check that these are working correctly unless they are misted or iced up on a cold day. One very crude way of checking though is to turn on the headlights and with the engine just idling operate the screen heater switches on and off. If each heater is working the headlamps will dim noticeably as it is switched on and get brighter as it is switched off. Note though that this is only a rough guide and you should double check the heaters on the first day of suitable inclement weather.

Taking a Test Drive

Check again that there are no leaks from the underside of the vehicle and that the wheel nuts are all tight! Remove the wheel chocks and take the vehicle for a test drive.

Keep checking that all dashboard warning lamps remain normal and all instruments (speedometer, odometer, temperature, fuel etc) are working correctly and displaying ‘normal’ readings. Check too that all heating and air-conditioning systems work correctly; run air-conditioning system for at least ten minutes.

Park the vehicle on a steep hill and check that the handbrake holds without excessive lever movement. Find an isolated road completely clear of any other road users or pedestrians and check that the vehicle will ‘emergency’ stop in a straight line without wheel locking (check road for skid marks).

On a motorway or dual carriageway, accelerate steadily to the maximum permissible speed checking for vibrations and steering wheel wobble throughout speed range. Listen for untoward rumbles especially increasing when steering left or right and loud clonks or feeling of excessive backlash when taking up drive.

Find an empty car park clear of any other vehicles and pedestrians and check for any steering kickback or squealing on both left and right full steering lock. Switch on all electrical accessories including heated screens and listen for alternator belt squealing as engine is revved.

On return home check the vehicle for oil or fluid leaks before turning off the engine. When the engine has cooled down check the oil level using the dipstick and top up to the ‘MAX’ mark if necessary. Check the coolant level too.

Cleaning Bodywork and Lights

Your last major task is to thoroughly clean your vehicle from top to bottom with a suitable car shampoo. Pay special attention to removing road grime and dried insects from all lights and windows. As you go around with the sponge check all your lights and number plates for cracks or damage. Lift the windscreen wiper blades off the screens and check for wear and tear as you wash them over. If you do find anything worn, broken or damaged, replace the item as soon as possible.

Difflock Tip: If you have used a car shampoo or car wash that has wax included in its ingredients then you must remove its waxy residue from your windows and windscreen wipers to avoid persistent and dangerous smearing during wet weather. Do this using either methylated spirits (outside where the fumes won’t affect you) or a vinegar (acetic acid) based, non-smear, household window cleaner.

Lubricating Locks, Hinges and Catches

After a thorough washing go around the vehicle with a tin of light oil and lubricate all the hinges (doors, bonnet etc) and flaps (fuel filler). Smear a very, very light touch of grease on the door catches. The rear door handle is notorious for sticking – apply a generous spray of AC90 to the rear door handle, and repeat this every few months.

WELL DONE! You have given your vehicle a far more thorough 6,000 mile service than any garage is likely to give. In the next issue we will tackle the 12,000 and 24,000 mile services, changing all the transmission fluids and tackling those noisy tappets!

Most of the tools and other items detailed in this article are AVAILABLE NOW! from the Difflock 4x4 Multi Store

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DISCLAIMER: Repairing and servicing vehicles should never be attempted unless you have appropriate professional training and are suitably qualified. If you are in any doubt about the work you intend to undertake you should consult an appropriate professional vehicle mechanic. Additionally you should always read and follow any relevant manufacturer’s manuals and safety instructions in full BEFORE attempting any work on a vehicle. To the extent permitted by English law, Difflock Ltd accepts no liability for any loss, damage or injury arising as a consequence of any of the advice provided.